A personal guide to the island I call home Join the Leros Facebook community
Visit LEROS The island of Artemis

From our gardens, kitchens & sea

A taste
of Leros

Food, glorious food! These are some of my favourite island flavours, with the photographs and family memories that made me want to share them in the first place.

My little culinary journey

Leros has some wonderful food. Here I share the fruit, cheese, fish, honey and traditional treats I have enjoyed, and I hope you get the chance to discover some of them when you visit.

The original photographs and personal recollections remain at the heart of this page. Ask local producers and tavernas what is in season and available when you are there.

Four flavours from the original page

My island favourites

A little sweetness, a little salt, and plenty of memories. These were the first four foods I chose for this guide.

Green gavafes growing among leaves in my father’s garden on Leros.
Gavafes in my father’s garden, from my 2005 photographs.
Fruit · Gavafes

The perfume of our island guavas

First on my list are gavafes, the guavas so closely associated with Leros. Their perfume, flavour and texture have stayed with me, even after tasting guavas on my travels in Asia.

This photograph shows fruit in my father’s garden. For me, it captures something very special about the island: a familiar flavour growing just outside the door.

A piece of Lerian myzithra on a plate with a tomato and basil.
Cheese sent by my mother, with tomato and basil from my own little garden.
Cheese · Myzithra

A little cheese, a lot of flavour

My second favourite is myzithra, written as “mytzithra” in my original guide. The salty, firm version is wonderful grated over pasta, while fresh myzithra has its own character.

The cheese I remember had such a powerful flavour that I compared it to Parmesan with the volume turned up. Get ready for a little explosion of taste!

My mother sent me the piece in this photograph. The tomato and basil came from my very own little garden. Very little, I should add.

Salt-cured fish from Dimitris’s own batch, photographed for the original food page.
Dimitris’s own batch of pasto psari from the original collection.
Fish · Pasto psari

Salt, the sea and a family tradition

Our culinary journey continues with pasto psari, salt-cured fish. My particular favourite is pasto kolio, cured mackerel.

In my original notes, I wrote about sea salt gathered around the nearby islands of Agia Kyriaki and Piganousa, and the knowledge passed through fishing families. Producing a good batch takes experience.

This was Dimitris’s own batch, and it came out very well. I remember it as a lovely accompaniment to fasolada, the traditional Greek bean soup.

An old Lerian honey label featuring honeycomb and bees.
A Lerian honey label from my original collection.
Honey · Meli

Sweetness from Leros

Lerian honey is another taste worth looking out for. I used to buy mine in Kamara and would also look for it in the shops around Alinda and Platanos.

Ask a local producer about honeycomb, called kyrithra in my original notes. I have always thought honey tastes even better straight from the comb, although perhaps that is just my imagination.

Check with local shops and beekeepers for what they have available during your visit.

Celebrations, family kitchens & sweet memories

Traditional treats to look out for

These names appeared in my original guide. Some belong to weddings, some to Easter, and some need very little excuse at all.

Wedding sweets

Pougkakia

Almond sweets traditionally associated with weddings. A little taste of Lerian celebration, and one of the treats I would ask about at a local sweet shop.

Soft & sweet

Svigkoi

They may remind you of loukoumades, but I remember the Lerian version as particularly soft and light, with a texture of its own.

Traditional pastry

Xerotigana

Also written as “kserotiana” in my old notes, these traditional fried pastries belong to the island’s sweet repertoire. Simple dough becomes something worth seeking out.

Easter bread

Koukouvades

An Easter bread from my original list. I remember noting that making it properly could take up to two days. Some traditions ask for time as well as ingredients.

Flavours of the Aegean

From the sea

Fish and seafood feature strongly in my memories of Leros. These descriptions preserve those memories, while availability depends on the season and the catch.

Fouskes & spinialo

Fouskes are sea squirts, with a dark exterior and vivid yellow or orange flesh. I find their flavour irresistible, although some English friends I persuaded to try them were less enthusiastic!

Spinialo is a traditional preserved seafood preparation associated with neighbouring Kalymnos. My little motto was “Spinialo thelo ki allo”, meaning “I want more spinialo”.

Achinoi

Sea urchins appeared in the original page as “axinous”. I remember their tiny orange portions as a remarkable salty and sweet taste of the Mediterranean.

A distinctive flavour from my island food memories.

Kalognomes

Another shellfish from my original list. I remember comparing its flavour with mussels, but with a sweeter taste and firmer texture.

Local names are part of the pleasure of discovering the island’s food traditions.

Fresh fish & calamari

Ask your taverna what has been caught locally and what is available that day. With calamari, it is worth asking whether it is fresh or frozen, rather than assuming. I still remember how special squid from around Leros could taste.

My favourite taverna

Karaflas Dimitris & Son

The original food page linked to Dimitris Ouzeri, our family’s restaurant. Over the years it became Karaflas Taverna, and with Dimitris’s son joining him, Karaflas Dimitris & Son.

The name has changed, but this is the same continuing family story. Dimitris and his food have a very special place in my Leros.

Read the story of Dimitris, Karaflas and the next generation →

When you visit

Ask what is local

A conversation with a producer, shopkeeper or taverna can lead you to a flavour you might otherwise miss.

Follow the season

Fruit, fish and traditional celebration foods are not always available. Ask what is at its best during your stay.

Share your discoveries

Found a Lerian food tradition or family recipe worth adding? Let me know. I would love this guide to keep growing.

What does Leros taste like to you?

Share your favourite dishes, photographs and island memories with the Leros Greece Facebook community.

Join the Leros group ↗

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