Stone walls · Island history · Aegean views
Castles
of Leros
From the castle above Platanos to the older walls at Xirokambos and the coastal ruins of Bourtzi, these are three places where the island’s history meets its landscape.
A little exploring, a lot to remember
My original guide introduced three castles and forts, including two that visitors might easily overlook. I still think they offer a wonderful way to see different parts of Leros.
I have kept the seven original photographs from 2002 and 2005, refreshed the descriptions and added links to archaeological and visitor information.
The Castle of Panagia
Known as the Castle of Panteli or Kastro tis Panagias, this is the landmark that watches over the island from Apityki hill. Its walls rise above Platanos, Panteli and Agia Marina, with views stretching across the bays and out to the Aegean.
The site has ancient roots, while the castle’s surviving history includes Byzantine fortification and later work by the Knights of Saint John. A document of 1087 connects it with Saint Christodoulos, founder of the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian on Patmos.
More than a view
Within the walls stands Panagia tou Kastrou, Our Lady of the Castle, a church with a special place in Lerian life. The ecclesiastical collection preserves icons, manuscripts, sacred books and other religious treasures.
You can approach the castle by road or climb the steps from Platanos. The climb is part of the island’s pilgrimage tradition on 15 August.
I strongly recommend a visit, even if your first reason is simply the view. The walls, bells, church and changing light offer plenty of opportunities for photographs.
Paleokastro
The Old Castle
Paleokastro means “Old Castle”. You may also see it called the Castle of Xirokambos or the Castle of Lepides. Its position above the southern settlement offers another perspective on the island and its coastline.
The Ephorate of Antiquities of the Dodecanese dates the visible fortifications to at least the Hellenistic period. It also identifies the site with the Castle of Lepides mentioned in a document of 1089, when it was made available to the people of Leros as a refuge.
Old walls and a little church
Within the fortification stands a post-Byzantine church dedicated to Panagia. The surviving walls and the church together make this a place where different periods of the island’s history sit side by side.
In my original page I described the enormous blocks as “Cyclopean”, imagining that it might take a Cyclops or two to shift them. Archaeologists, I promise I was joking! The stonework is impressive enough without any mythical assistance.
Take time to look at the setting as well as the walls. This was another of my favourite opportunities for an overview of Leros. Cameras ready!
Bourtzi Fort
Written as Brutzi, Broutzi or Bruzzi in different guides, Bourtzi is the coastal fort whose remains stand by the entrance to Agia Marina’s harbour. It is much less imposing than the castle above Platanos, but it has its own place in the island’s story.
My original page admitted that I was still trying to establish its history. I have kept that sense of curiosity here. The regional tourism guide describes it as a medieval fortress; other local accounts discuss earlier traces at the site.
The photographs below are the two I shared in 2002: one from a distance, and one closer to the remaining stonework. For me, they are a reminder to notice the smaller landmarks as well as the famous ones.
Enjoy the island at your own pace
Before you visit
Check opening arrangements
For the Castle of Panagia and its ecclesiastical collection, check the official visitor guide . Opening arrangements vary by season. For the other sites, confirm current access locally.
Choose your approach
The main castle has a road approach and steps from Platanos. If steps or uneven ground affect your plans, ask about the route and access inside the site before setting out.
Take your time
Bring water, wear comfortable shoes and follow the paths and local guidance. Enjoy the views, leave the stonework undisturbed and save a little time for the nearby villages.
A personal favourite
After the views, a taste of Leros
After exploring the island’s stories, make time for one of my favourite parts of Leros: its food. My favourite taverna is Karaflas Dimitris & Son.
From Dimitris Ouzeri to Karaflas Taverna, and now Karaflas Dimitris & Son, it is the same family story continuing into another generation.
Read the family story or discover more flavours of Leros.
Share your Leros discoveries
Have a castle photograph, a local story or an update for this guide? You can reach out to me through the Leros Greece Facebook group and share it with our island community.