Leros, Dodecanese, Greece Meet the Leros community on Facebook
A local's guide

Explore Leros,
place by place.

Bays, villages, castles and chapels. Discover the places I have collected over the years, along with their photographs, memories and local legends.

This personal guide includes photographs and memories from the original Visit Leros collection. Older business recommendations are marked as archive memories; please check current services, opening times and boat arrangements directly. Click a photograph to return to the island map.

Bays & villages

Xirokampos

A lovely coastal area with a beach and views across the water towards Kalymnos. It is a good starting point for exploring Paleokastro and the nearby chapel of Panagia Kavouradena.

From the original guide: I noted local boat connections to Kalymnos, camping and diving activities here. Check which services are available when planning your visit.

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Xirokampos beach and bay in the original photo collection
Xirokampos bay.
Ancient heritage

Paleokastro

Above Xirokampos, Paleokastro, also known as the Castle of Lepida, is well worth a visit for its views and layers of history. The fortifications occupy an ancient acropolis site, with remains reused and altered over successive periods.

Take your time here. The stonework and the outlook across the bay give this quieter castle its own character.

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Historic stone walls at Paleokastro
Paleokastro stonework.
Another archive view of the walls at Paleokastro
Another view of the site.
Chapels & legends

Panagia Kavouradena

This small chapel, built into the coastal rock near Xirokampos, is one of the places I encourage visitors to discover.

A local legend

A fisherman searching for crabs was bitten by one. When he discovered an icon of Panagia, the Virgin Mary, his wound was miraculously healed. According to the story, the chapel was built where he found the icon.

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An icon associated with Panagia Kavouradena in the original church collection
From the church archive.
Harbours & history

Lakki

Lakki is one of the island's principal harbours, set around a large natural bay. Walk along the waterfront and allow time to appreciate the town's distinctive architecture from the Italian period.

The harbour also holds an important wartime story. The Greek destroyer Vasilissa Olga, or Queen Olga, was sunk here during a German air raid on 26 September 1943. A memorial commemorates the ship and those who were lost.

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The waterfront at Lakki
Lakki waterfront.
Waves along Lakki's waterfront in an archive photograph
Lakki in windy weather.
The entrance to Lakki harbour viewed across the water
The harbour entrance.
Beaches & coastal life

Gourna & Drymonas

Gourna offers a broad beach with shallow water. Nearby Drymonas is another corner of the coastline to explore, with the church of Panagia Gourlomata also mentioned in the original guide.

A memory from the original guide: I recommended Sotos restaurant in Drymonas for seafood and suggested asking about local specialities. This recommendation belongs to the earlier collection.

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A coastal road and the sea at Drymonas
Drymonas coastline.
Beach days

Alinda

Alinda, also written Alinta, is one of the island's well-known beach areas. In the original guide I described it as a lively choice for a beach day and mentioned windsurfing. Belenis Tower adds a cultural stop to a visit here.

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Museums & island culture

Belenis Tower

In Alinda, Belenis Tower houses a collection connected with the island's history and folklore. Its distinctive towers make it an easy landmark to recognise.

From the original guide: Summer activities around this area included wine festivals, the Alinta Games and theatrical productions. Check the current programme for your visit.

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The front of Belenis Tower framed by trees
Belenis Tower.
Another view of Belenis Tower and its grounds
The tower and grounds.
Small bays

Panagies & Dyo Liskaria

Panagies is one of the small coastal places I included for visitors seeking a quieter moment. Continue exploring this part of the island to discover Dyo Liskaria, also written Dio Liskaria, another little bay mentioned in the original guide.

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A chapel in the original Panagies photo collection
From the Panagies archive.
A quieter shore

Kryfos

Kryfos, sometimes written Krifos, is a secluded coastal spot beyond Dyo Liskaria. The original guide described reaching it by boat from Alinda or by a demanding route on foot. Ask locally about access and conditions before setting out.

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Waterfront towns

Agia Marina

A lively waterfront town with places to stop for a coffee, a meal or an evening drink. Its streets connect with Platanos above, making the two places rewarding to explore together.

Agia Marina is also a harbour used by passenger boats. Confirm your departure port and current connections with your operator, as arrangements can change.

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Agia Marina and the surrounding waterfront viewed from above
Agia Marina.
Harbours & ancient connections

Partheni & Artemis

Partheni is close to the island's airport and forms part of Leros's northern landscape. It is also associated with the ancient worship of Artemis, the goddess of hunting.

The original guide referred to the Temple of Artemis. Archaeological evidence in the area supports the connection with her worship, although the temple's precise location is uncertain.

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Boats in the bay at Partheni
Partheni bay.
Beach days & memories

Blefouti

Beyond Partheni, Blefouti is a lovely bay to include in your exploration of the island. It is one of the beaches I encouraged readers of the original guide to discover.

A memory from the original guide: I recommended a relaxing lunch at Artemis Restaurant and remembered Frideriki's calamari in particular.

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Blefouti bay with hills beyond the beach
Blefouti bay.
Squares & village streets

Platanos

Platanos is an important administrative and shopping centre, with the town hall and familiar island life around its square. Take time to wander through the streets rather than simply passing through.

In the original guide, I suggested asking for directions to Agia Paraskevi, the old cathedral of the island.

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Buildings around the square in Platanos
Platanos square.
A narrow village street on the way towards Agia Paraskevi
Along the village streets.
The island's landmark

The Castle of Panagia & the windmills

The castle above the town is one of Leros's most recognisable landmarks. Within it is the church of Panagia tou Kastrou, known for its revered icon and religious treasures. The original guide also described a collection of manuscripts, holy books, icons and ecclesiastical objects.

The legend of the travelling icon

According to local tradition, an icon of Panagia arrived from Constantinople in a small boat with a candle burning beside it and nobody steering. The islanders took the icon to the cathedral, but it appeared the following day inside a locked arsenal at the castle.

When the priests returned it to the cathedral, the same thing happened again. The story tells that the Turkish captain, who held the only keys to the arsenal, recognised the miracle and gave the room to the islanders to house the icon.

On the road towards the castle, stop to appreciate the windmills and the views across the settlements and the sea.

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The castle seen beyond prickly pear plants
The castle above the town.
An older photograph of the castle and hillside settlement
From the castle archive.
Windmills along the ridge below the castle
The windmills.
Fishing villages

Panteli

A beautiful fishing village with boats, waterfront tables and places to enjoy an evening by the sea. The road towards the castle and the windmills is another connection to explore from this area.

A memory from the original guide: Savana Bar, near the end of the village, was one of my favourite places to relax in the evening. I remembered Peter, the music and an extensive collection of CDs.

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Panteli fishing village and harbour viewed from above
Panteli.
Between two bays

Spilia

Between Panteli and Vromolithos, Spilia was described in the original guide as a convenient base for exploring the two beach areas.

It is also part of this website's family story: the original pages introduced Rodon Hotel and Dimitris Ouzeri here.

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The beach and coastal buildings in the original Spilia collection
From the Spilia collection.
Beaches & coastal landmarks

Vromolithos

A beautiful beach area to discover near Panteli and Spilia. The original guide also mentioned the coastal rocks known locally as Deftera and Psili, which form part of my memories of this shore.

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Vromolithos beach and the curved coastline viewed from above
Vromolithos coastline.
Chapels & quieter places

Agios Georgios, Vourlidia

Agios Georgios, called Agios Georgis in the original guide, is another chapel associated with a quieter coastal corner. I included Vourlidia as somewhere to relax away from the busier places.

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The small chapel of Agios Georgios at Vourlidia
Agios Georgios.
A chapel by the sea

Agios Isidoros

A chapel built on a rocky islet and reached by a narrow stone causeway. Walking towards it can feel as though you are walking across the surface of the sea.

This is one of the images of Leros that stays with me. Take a moment to enjoy the setting as well as the chapel itself.

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Agios Isidoros chapel at the end of its narrow causeway
Agios Isidoros.
Quieter discoveries

Agios Nikolaos Meraloudis

In the original guide, I described reaching this chapel as requiring some effort, but being well worth it for the peaceful setting. Ask locally about the appropriate route before including it in your plans.

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The chapel of Agios Nikolaos Meraloudis in its coastal setting
Agios Nikolaos Meraloudis.
Faith, art & memory

Agia Kioura

North of Partheni, Agia Kioura, also known as Matrona, is a small church with an important connection to the island's modern history. Its distinctive religious paintings were created by political exiles during the Greek dictatorship.

A story shared with me

A local told me of a pirate's widow who settled here with his crew. She used the wealth her husband had left to care for the islanders, who called her Kyra, or Kioura in the Lerian dialect, meaning lady. In this local telling, a church was built in her memory after her death.

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Agia Kioura church in the original chapel collection
Agia Kioura.
An island off the island

Agia Kyriaki

The small island of Agia Kyriaki, with its white chapel, is another place included in the original guide. A visit depends on suitable boat arrangements and conditions.

The legend of the found icon

A fisherman who visited the island to collect salt kept stumbling over a piece of wood. He threw it into the sea, only to find it there again on his next visit. The third time, he looked more closely and discovered that it was an icon of Saint Kyriaki. According to the story, he built a chapel where he found it.

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Agia Kyriaki seen offshore beyond flowers in the foreground
Agia Kyriaki in the distance.
My favourite taverna on Leros

Dimitris Karaflas

My favourite taverna and restaurant on the island. Follow Karaflas on Instagram for photographs and updates, or join the Facebook group celebrating his food.

Dimitris Karaflas, we love your food · Facebook group

Keep a little of Leros with you.

Share photographs, memories and questions with islanders, visitors and friends of Leros.

Visit the Leros Facebook group